Cathedral Broderers Chosen to Create a modern-day Opus Anglicanum

Is this the greatest team of needleworkers ever assembled?

Needleworkers from twelve of our cathedrals have been chosen to take part in a unique project to produce a textile masterpiece using traditional craft techniques last used on such a scale over 500 years ago.

Cathedral broderers chosen to create a modern-day Opus Anglicanum

This new modern-day Opus Anglicanum aims to be one of the most significant in over 500 years and has been designed by internationally known iconographer Aidan Hart and has been sponsored by The Worshipful Company of Upholders, a City of London Livery Company which dates back to 1360.

‘Opus Anglicanum’ is the Latin for ‘English work’ and refers to a highly prized style of medieval English embroidery, particularly popular in the 13th and 14th centuries.

It was known for the intricate designs in gold and silver threads on velvet or linen.

Over two metres in diameter, The Circle of Life will be the most significant piece of Opus Anglicanum embroidery produced since the Fishmongers Pall in 1530 and each cathedral group will produce one panel.

The ancient craft techniques used in this piece of work will represent the pinnacle of hand stitch craft. The project is fully supported by the Royal School of Needlework, who have provided training and ongoing mentoring for all the embroiderers.

The Circle of Life will be a special showcase for ancient craft techniques and it is hoped will attract new volunteers to strengthen existing broderer teams in our cathedrals.

The finished work will be unveiled at the Guildhall in the City of London as part of the celebrations to mark the 400th anniversary of the grant of the Livery Company’s Royal Charter next year.It will then be exhibited at venues around the country, including the participating cathedrals of Durham, St Paul’s, Southwell, Derby, Liverpool, Lincoln, Norwich, Winchester, St Albans, Exeter, and Salisbury.

The team leader for the project in Derby, Janet Poole, said,

“Derby Cathedral Workshop were thrilled to be chosen to help in this special piece of Embroidery work. We hope it will encourage others to come and join us to help and learn so that this valued work may continue. 

‘It is fitting that we are involved in this project this year as the Workshop is celebrating 70 years of support to Derby Cathedral and the Diocese,’ she added.

The Saintly Stitchers embroiderers at Salisbury Cathedral have been busy stitching their panel too.

Lesley Fudge, Team Leader there, said:

“Underside couching is just one of the techniques that we will be using in the project. There will be satin stitch, long and short stitch, Bayeux stitch and couched gold-work. 

‘As the pieces develop, some wonderful colours will be included, ruby red, bottle green and dark blue, both wool and thread, so between now and April 2026 there will be so much more to see. 

’Once completed our stitched panel will join eleven others to make a 2.3metre circle of life, our panel being ‘birth’. Each will be accompanied by a blue silk panel with a silhouette of each cathedral worked in gold. 

‘Visitors can ‘have a go’ at underside couching on an embroidery hoop here at Salisbury Cathedral and will become part of the history of the project.”

Jane Drummond, team leader for the volunteers who make up the Lincoln Cathedral Needlework Guild,said,

‘We are honoured to be part of this important national initiative to create a historically significant masterpiece and hope that it will inspire those with a passion for embroidery and textiles to learn more.”

The Upholders, who are sponsoring the project, are one of the ancient Livery Companies of the City of London. The Company was formed on 1 March 1360 and incorporated by a Royal Charter granted by King Charles I in the year 1626. The term “Upholder” is an archaic word for “upholsterer”. In past times Upholders carried out not just the manufacture and sale of upholstered goods but were cabinet makers, undertakers, soft furnishers, auctioneers and valuers.

Production of the artwork began in April and will be completed by April 2026.

From Monday 7th July, Salisbury Cathedral will also be beginning a brand-new Textile Treasures tour featuring altar frontals, kneelers and wall hangings, some dating back as early as the circa 17th century. For a limited time, the tour will finish with the opportunity to see the embroiderers working on Circle of Life.

Tickets for the Textile Treasures Tour from £16 and will run on Mondays at 2pm and last approximately 60 minutes.

For more information about the tour and to buy tickets, click here.

Visitors can also find out more about the fascinating work of Norwich Cathedral’s Broderers’ Guild by joining one of the Guild’s monthly behind the scenes tours.

This year’s tours will be taking place on the following Wednesdays at 2pm: 23 July, 13 August, 24 September, 22 October and 19 November.

Tickets cost £7 and booking is essential.

To book, email hjenkins@cathedral.org.uk